I-Trend Toward 'Glassification'

Ngenxa yezinzuzo zayo eziningi, ukupakishwa kwengilazi, kuyanda kuzo zombili iphunga

kanye nezimonyo.

Ubuchwepheshe bokupakisha bepulasitiki buye bahamba ibanga elide eminyakeni yamuva, kodwa ingilazi iyaqhubeka nokubusa endaweni yephunga elimnandi, ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba kanye nokunakekelwa komuntu siqu, lapho ikhwalithi iyinkosi kanye nesithakazelo somthengi "kwimvelo" ikhule ukuze ihlanganise yonke into kusukela ekubunjweni kuya emaphaketheni. .

"Kunezinzuzo eziningi ekusebenziseni ingilazi uma kuqhathaniswa nezinye izinto," kusho uSamantha Vouanzi, umphathi wobuhle,Estal.“Ngokusebenzisa ingilazi, uthinta izinzwa eziningana—Ukubona: ingilazi iyakhanya, futhi iwukubonakaliswa kokuphelela;Thinta: into ebandayo futhi ikhuthaza ubumsulwa bemvelo;Isisindo: inzwa yesisindo ishayela umuzwa wekhwalithi.Yonke le mizwa yezinzwa ayikwazi ukudluliselwa ngenye into.”

IGrandview Research yazisa imakethe yomhlaba wonke ye-skincare ngama-dollar ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezingama-135 ngonyaka ka-2018, nokuqagela ukuthi le ngxenye isilungele ukukhula ngo-4.4% ukusuka ngo-2019-2025 ngenxa yesidingo sokhilimu wobuso, okokuvikela ilanga kanye nezigcobo zomzimba.Intshisekelo eyengeziwe emikhiqizweni yemvelo ne-organic skincare nayo isikhulile, sibonga kakhulu ekuqwashiseni okuzungezile imiphumela emibi yezithako zokwenziwa kanye nesifiso esilandelayo sezinye izithako zemvelo ezengeziwe.

UFederico Montali, umphathi wezokukhangisa nokuthuthukiswa kwebhizinisi,Bormioli Luigi, iphawula ukuthi kube nomnyakazo obheke ekwandeni “kwe-premium”—ushintsho ukusuka epulasitiki ukuya emaphaketheni engilazi—ikakhulukazi esigabeni sokunakekela isikhumba.Ingilazi, uthi, iletha impahla ebaluleke kakhulu yezinto zokuqala zokupakisha: ukuqina kwamakhemikhali.“[Ingilazi] ayisebenzi ngamakhemikhali, iqinisekisa ukuhambisana nanoma imuphi umkhiqizo wobuhle, okuhlanganisa ukwakheka kwemvelo okungazinzile kokunakekelwa kwesikhumba,” esho.

Imakethe yamakha yomhlaba wonke, ebihlala iyikhaya lokupakishwa kwengilazi, yabiza ama-dollar ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezingama-31.4 ngonyaka ka-2018 kanti ukukhula kulindeleke ukuthi kukhuphuke cishe ngo-4% ukusuka ngo-2019-2025, ngokusho kweGrandview Research.Ngenkathi umkhakha uqhubeka nokuqhutshwa ukuzilungisa komuntu siqu kanye nokusetshenziswa kwemali komuntu siqu okuqhutshwa yimali engenayo, abadlali ababalulekile bagxile futhi ekwethuleni amakha emvelo esigabeni esikhokhelwayo, ngokuyinhloko ngenxa yokukhathazeka okukhulayo mayelana nokungezwani komzimba nezinto ezinobuthi ezithakweni zokwenziwa.Ngokusho kocwaningo, cishe u-75% wabesifazane beMillennial bakhetha ukuthenga imikhiqizo yemvelo, kanti abangaphezu kuka-45% babo bathanda "amakha anempilo" emvelo.

Phakathi kwamathrendi okupakishwa kwengilazi ezingxenyeni zobuhle nephunga ukukhuphuka kwemiklamo "ephazamisayo", ehlanganiswe yizimo ezintsha ezivezwe engilazini ebunjwe ngaphandle noma yangaphakathi.Ngokwesibonelo,Verescenceyenze ibhodlela eliyinkimbinkimbi neliyinkimbinkimbi elingu-100ml le-Illuminare nguVince Camuto (Parlux Group) isebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bayo obunelungelo lobunikazi be-SCULPT'in."Umklamo omusha webhodlela ugqugquzelwe yizingilazi zaseMurano, ezivusa amajika abesifazane nezinkanuko zomuntu wesifazane," kuchaza uGuillaume Bellissen, iphini likamongameli, ukuthengisa nokumaketha,Verescence.“Isimo sangaphakathi se-organic esingasimetric…[senza] umdlalo wokukhanya onesimo esiyindilinga sangaphandle sengilazi ebunjiwe kanye nephunga elimnandi elinombala obomvana.”

Bormioli Luigiizuze ukuboniswa okuhlaba umxhwele ngokulinganayo kokuqamba okusha nekhono lobuchwepheshe ngokudalwa kwebhodlela lephunga elisha labesifazane, i-Idôle kaLancôme (L'Oréal).U-Bormioli Luigi wenza ibhodlela elingu-25ml ngokukhethekile futhi wabelana ngokwenziwa kwebhodlela elingu-50ml ngokutholakala kabili nomnikezeli wengilazi, i-Pochet.

"Ibhodlela lincane kakhulu, libhekene ne-geometrical yokusabalalisa ingilazi efanayo, futhi izindonga zebhodlela zinhle kangangokuthi ukupakishwa akubonakali ukuze kuzuze amakha," kuchaza u-Montali."Isici esinzima kakhulu ukushuba kwebhodlela (kuphela i-15mm) okwenza ingilazi ibe inselele eyingqayizivele, okokuqala ngoba ukwethulwa kwengilazi esikhunjeni esincanyana kangaka kusezingeni lokwenzeka, okwesibili ngoba ukusabalalisa ingilazi kufanele kube. okulinganayo futhi okujwayelekile kuwo wonke umjikelezo;[kunzima] kakhulu ukukuthola unendawo encane yokuqondisa.”

I-silhouette encane yebhodlela iphinde isho ukuthi ayikwazi ukuma esisekelweni salo futhi idinga izici ezikhethekile kumabhande okuhambisa umugqa wokukhiqiza.

Umhlobiso usemngceleni wangaphandle webhodlela futhi [usetshenziswa ngokunamathisela] abakaki bensimbi ezinhlangothini ze-50ml futhi, ngomphumela ofanayo, ukufafaza okuyingxenye ezinhlangothini ze-25ml.

I-Eco-Friendly ngaphakathi

Esinye isici esiyingqayizivele nesifiselekayo sengilazi ukuthi ingaphinda isetshenziswe ngokungapheli ngaphandle kokuwohloka kwezakhiwo zayo.

"Iningi lengilazi elisetshenziselwa izimonyo kanye nephunga elimnandi lenziwe ngezinto zemvelo neziqinile ezihlanganisa isihlabathi, i-limestone, nomlotha wesoda," kusho uMike Warford, umphathi wezokuthengisa kuzwelonke.I-ABA Packaging.“Imikhiqizo eminingi yokupakisha engilazi ikwazi ukugaywa kabusha ngo-100% futhi ingagaywa kabusha ngokungapheli ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa izinga nobumsulwa [futhi] kubikwa ukuthi u-80% wengilazi etholiwe wenziwa imikhiqizo emisha yengilazi.”

“Ingilazi manje isibonwa njengento ephambili kakhulu, yemvelo, egaywa kabusha futhi evumelana nemvelo iningi labathengi, ikakhulukazi phakathi kweMillennials neGeneration Z,” kuphawula iBellissen kaVerescence.“Njengomenzi wengilazi, sibone umnyakazo onamandla ukusuka kupulasitiki ukuya engilazini emakethe yobuhle bezinga eliphezulu kule minyaka emibili edlule.”

Umkhuba wamanje wokuhlanganisa ingilazi yinto ebizwa ngokuthi iBellissen “njengengilazi.”“Amakhasimende ethu afuna ukususa ipulasitiki amaphakheji awo obuhle kuzo zonke izingxenye ezisezingeni eliphezulu ezihlanganisa i-skincare kanye nezimonyo,” usho kanje, ekhomba umsebenzi wakamuva ka-Verescence no-Estée Lauder wokuguqula i-Advanced Night Repair Eye Cream edayisa kakhulu isuka embizeni yepulasitiki iye engilazini. 2018.

"Le nqubo yokwenza ingilazi iholele kumkhiqizo owubukhazikhazi kakhulu, ngesikhathi kufinyelelwa impumelelo yezentengiselwano, ikhwalithi ebonwayo inyuke kakhulu, futhi ukupakishwa sekungaphinda kusetshenziswe kabusha."

Ukupakishwa kwe-Eco-friendly/recyclable kungesinye sezicelo eziphezulu ezitholwe yiInkampani Coverpla Inc."Ngolayini wethu ovumela imvelo wamabhodlela nezimbiza, abathengi bangaphinda basebenzise ingilazi, futhi umkhiqizo ungaphinda ugcwaliseke okuqeda ukungcola ngokweqile," kusho uStefanie Peransi, othengisa ngaphakathi.

"Izinkampani zisebenzisa ukupakishwa okugcwalisekayo ngokwengeziwe ngesidingo sokubaluleka kwe-eco-friendly ekuziphatheni kwezinkampani eziningi."

Ukwethulwa kwakamuva kwebhodlela lengilazi lika-Coverpla kuyibhodlela layo elisha le-Parme elingu-100ml, idizayini yakudala, eyiqanda futhi enamahlombe ayindilinga ebonisa usilika ocwebezelayo wegolide, inkampani ethi ubonisa ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwezinsimbi eziyigugu kungasebenza kanjani ngokuvumelana nengilazi ukuze kuphakanyiswe izinga. umkhiqizo ube yi-premium, kanokusho.

I-Estal idizayina futhi idale amaphrojekthi okupakisha anemininingwane egxile emisha kanye nenkululeko enkulu yokudala, ukuhlola izinto ezintsha, izithunzi, ukwakheka nokusebenzisa izixazululo ezintsha zobuchwepheshe nezokuhlobisa.Phakathi kwekhathalogi ka-Estal yemikhiqizo yengilazi kukhona izigaba eziningana eziqhutshwa ukuklama nokusimama.

Isibonelo, i-Vouanzi ikhomba ku-Doble Alto perfumery kanye nebanga lezimonyo njengento eyodwa emakethe."I-Doble Alto iwubuchwepheshe obunelungelo lobunikazi obuthuthukiswe ngu-Estal, obuvumela ukunqwabelana kwengilazi okulengiswe ngaphansi kwembobo," esho."Lobu buchwepheshe kusithathe iminyaka eminingana ukuthi sichazwe ngokugcwele."

Ngaphambili kokusimama, u-Estal futhi uyaziqhenya ngokuthi ukhiqize uhla lwengilazi ye-PCR eyi-100% emishinini ezenzakalelayo.U-Vouanzi ulindele ukuthi umkhiqizo, obizwa nge-Wild Glass, uzoba nentshisekelo ethile ebuhleni bamazwe ngamazwe kanye nemikhiqizo yamakha asekhaya.

Izimpumelelo ku-Lightened Glass

Ukugcwalisa ingilazi egaywe kabusha kungenye indlela yengilazi eco-friendly: ingilazi ekhanyisiwe.Ukuthuthukiswa engilazini evamile egaywe kabusha, ingilazi ekhanyisiwe kunciphisa kakhulu isisindo kanye nevolumu yangaphandle yephakheji, kuyilapho kunciphisa kakhulu ukusetshenziswa kwempahla eluhlaza kanye nokukhishwa kwe-carbon dioxide kulo lonke uchungechunge lokuhlinzeka.

Ingilazi ekhanyisiwe isenkabeni ye-ecoLine ka-Bormioli Luigi, uhla lwamabhodlela engilazi akhanyayo kakhulu nezimbiza zezimonyo nephunga.“Ziklanywe ngemvelo ukuthi zibe nezimo ezimsulwa nezilula futhi zikhanye ngangokunokwenzeka ukuze kuncishiswe ukukhishwa kwempahla, amandla kanye ne-CO2,” kuchaza i-Montali yenkampani.

U-Verescence ubambisene no-Guerlain ukuze bakhanyise ingilazi emikhiqizweni yayo yokunakekela imini nobusuku, i-Abeille Royale, ngemva kokuthola impumelelo ngokunciphisa isisindo sembiza yayo ye-Orchidée Impériale ngo-2015. I-Bellissen ka-Verescence ithi uGuerlain ukhethe i-Verre Infini NEO yenkampani yakhe (ehlanganisa u-90% we-cullet ukugaywa kabusha okuhlanganisa u-25% we-post-consumer cullet, u-65% we-post-industrial cullet kanye no-10% kuphela wezinto zokusetshenziswa) zemikhiqizo yokunakekela emini nasebusuku ye-Abeille Royale.Ngokuya kwe-Verescence, le nqubo iveze ukuncipha kwekhabhoni ngo-44% ngonyaka owodwa (cishe ukukhishwa kwe-CO2 okucishe kube ngamathani angama-565) kanye nokuncipha kokusetshenziswa kwamanzi ngama-42%.

Ingilazi yesitoko sikanokusho Ebukeka Ngokwezifiso

Uma amabhrendi ecabanga ingilazi ephezulu yokunuka noma ubuhle, acabanga ngephutha ukuthi kulingana nokunikeza idizayini yangokwezifiso.Kungumbono oyiphutha ovamile wokuthi amabhodlela enziwe ngokwezifiso kuphela angaletha isipiliyoni senani eliphezulu ngoba ukupakishwa kwengilazi yesitoko kuhambe ibanga elide.

“Ingilazi yephunga elimnandi itholakala kalula njengezinto ezitholakala eshalofini ngosayizi nezitayela ezithandwayo,” kusho iWarford ye-ABA Packaging.I-ABA inikeze imboni amabhodlela ephunga elimnandi eshalofu, ama-accoutrements kanye nezinsiza zokuhlobisa embonini kusukela ngo-1984. abanye abakhiqizi abahamba phambili emhlabeni. "

U-Warford uqhuba athi lawa mabhodlela eshelufu, okuthi, ezimweni eziningi, athengiswe ngamanani aphansi kakhulu, angahlotshiswa ngokushesha nangokwezomnotho ngezingubo zokufafaza zokudala kanye nekhophi ephrintiwe ukuze anikeze ukubukeka komkhiqizo umthengi akufunayo."Ngenxa yokuthi anosayizi abajwayelekile bokuphela kwentamo, amabhodlela angahlanganiswa namaphampu ephunga elimnandi kanye nezinhlobonhlobo ezinkulu zamakepisi emfashini okunethezeka ukuncoma ukubukeka."

I-Stock Glass ene-Twist

Amabhodlela engilazi yesitoko abe yisinqumo esifanele kuBrianna Lipovsky, umsunguli weIndlu ka-Etto, uhlobo olunephunga elimnandi olusanda kukhipha uhla lwalo lokuqala olukhethiwe lwamakha angathathi hlangothi ngokobulili, oludalelwe “ukukhuthaza izikhathi zokuxhumana, ukuzithoba, inhlalakahle.”

U-Lipovsky wasondela ngokucophelela kuzo zonke izici ekwakhiweni kokupakishwa kwakhe ngokunaka ngokucophelela imininingwane.Unqume ukuthi izindleko zokubunjwa kwesitoko kanye nama-MOQ kumayunithi ngokwezifiso angu-50,000 zazingabizi kakhulu kumkhiqizo wakhe ozixhasayo.Futhi ngemva kokuhlola imiklamo namasayizi amabhodlela angaphezu kuka-150 avela kubakhiqizi abahlukahlukene., uLipovsky wagcina ekhethe ibhodlela lesitoko elinomumo oyingqayizivele, elingu-60ml eBrosse eFrance, elihlanganiswe nekepisi elibaziwe elinesibindi elibuswayo.Silowaelibonakala lintanta phezu kwebhodlela lengilazi eliyindilinga.

“Ngayithanda indlela ibhodlela elibunjwe ngayo ilingana nekepisi ngakho noma ngenza isiko, bekungeke kwenze mehluko ongako,” usho kanje.“Ibhodlela lingena kahle esandleni sowesifazane nesowesilisa, futhi liyakwazi ukubamba kahle futhi lithinte isandla somuntu omdala okungenzeka ukuthi unesifo samathambo.”

U-Lipovsky uyavuma ukuthi nakuba ibhodlela liyisitokwe ngokobuchwepheshe, wayala u-Brosse ukuthi ahlele ngokuphindwe kathathu ingilazi esetshenziselwa ukwakha amabhodlela akhe ngomzamo wokuqinisekisa ukuthi umkhiqizo wokugcina ubusezingeni eliphezulu kanye nobuciko.“Uhlobo kwakuwukufuna imigqa yokusabalalisa ngisho engilazini—phezulu, phansi nasemaceleni,” uyachaza."Abakwazanga ukusheshisa ibheshi obekufanele ngithenge kuyo njengoba benza izigidi ngesikhathi, ngakho-ke sibe nabo ngohlobo oluphindwe kathathu ukuze bangabonakali kancane emithumeni."

Amabhodlela ephunga enziwe ngokwezifiso i-Imprimerie du Marais.“Sidizayine ilebula elula neyinkimbinkimbi sisebenzisa iphepha Lohlelo Lombala elingagcotshiwe elinokuthungwa kwentambo, elenza kuphile izici zesakhiwo namaphethini zomkhiqizo ngesikrini sikasilika esiluhlaza salolo hlobo,” usho kanje.

Umphumela uwumkhiqizo uLipovsky aziqhenya ngawo ngokungenakulinganiswa.Ungenza amafomu esitoko ayisisekelo abukeke emahle ngokusangana ngokunambitha, ukuklama nokunaka imininingwane, okuveza ukunethezeka ngokubona kwami,” kuphetha yena.

ROLLON副本


Isikhathi sokuthumela: Mar-18-2021